Ford 600 Piston Pump Download

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Dennis Sebesta
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 8:10 am Post subject: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
I changed the hydraulic fluid on a ford 600 tractor, and overfilled it. I used it shredding for about 40 minutes. With time the hydraulics slowly stopped working. The tractor had set up for about 8 yrs. With time it took running the tractor longer and longer before it would lift, then stopped working alltogether. It has a hydraulic pump not the vane. Oil will comeout of the drain plug when running. I hooked a hose to it anf ran it back into the resivor, and it ran pretty good.
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souNdguy
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 10:01 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
Hmm. oil will come out of the drain plug when it is running so you ran it back to the sump?
The hyd sump of a hundred series does have some extra space in it for adding extra fluid for remote cyl's. i have 2g extra oil in my 660 and 850 with NO problems at all.
So. are you saying that your drain plug leaks? ( since you said oil came out of it when running? )
These tractors have a seperate hyds sump, tranny sump, and diffy sump, each have their own drain plug and fill port.. are you 100% sure you drained the hyds and filled the hyds. Hyd fill port is under your left thigh as you sit on the pan seat.
Did you bleed the pump after the oil change.
What oil did you use?
post back.
soundguy
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Dennis Sebesta
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 2:35 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
Thanks for the reply. Yes, I drained the hydraulic oil. No, the plug doesnt leak. I removed the plug and screwed in a pipe nipple, and hooked a hose to it and ran it back into the sump under the seat. It had a good flow from the pump. Initially I overfilled the hydralics and used it shredding for about 40 minutes, and then it slowly stopped lifting after that. I would run the tractor for about 15 minutes sometimes and it would start working, then slowly quit all together. Before it totally stopped it would hickup some also. I used a universal hydraulic fluid for tractors.
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awhtx
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 3:31 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
I think what you are calling the 'drain plug' is the small plug at the forward end of the hydraulic pump itself. If you have installed a fitting in this port and then connected a tube to it and put the other end of the tube in the filler port and confirmed that you have flow then you have confirmed that your pump is working.
Now, why won't your 3 point lift? If the tractor sat for 8 years there is a good chance that the seals in the system have dried out and cracked. Start the tractor and look inside the hydraulic compartment (through the filler port) for hydraulic fluid leaking internally. I'm going to bet that you need to remove your hydraulic lift cover and completely rebuild it with all new seals and o-rings. Be sure to replace the o-rings on each end of the hyd manifold between the pump and trans.
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ZANE
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 5:15 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
First thing to do is remove the fill cap on the lift housing and then while trying to lift the shredder look into the fill hole and you can see the open end of the ram cylinder that does the raising of the lift. If there is a steady stream of oil running out the back of the cylinder the ring/s are shot and need to be replaced.
If it is not leaking there it is possible that the pressure relief valve is leaking. It is easy to access on the Hundred series model tractor. Remove the plate on the right front of the lift housing. This is the remote adapter plate or if it has a remote valve there remove it. The relief valve is going to be the little spark plug looking thingy in one of the holes you can see when the plate is removed. Do not start the tractor with this plate off. Replace the valve. It is not serviceable. I have at times though taken the cap off and found foreign matter under the ball letting it not be able to seat. Do not adjust. If you do take it apart put the cap back only to the solder stop that held it before you took it off. Damage to the pump etc can result if it is altered.
HUNDRED SERIES HYDRAULIC TROUBLE SHOOTING
INCLUDING NAA SERIES.
First you must determine if the pump is pumping correctly.
Most of these round later pumps have two plugs in the pump The one closest to the front of the tractor and in the head of the pump is the one you use to bleed the air out of the pump after air has entered the pump. Air can enter the pump from a bad pump shaft seal and or bearings and it can also enter the pump through a leaky intake O ring or a small hole in the intake pipe. If the hole is above the oil level it will not leak when standing. Usually if it is below the level of the oil the oil will leak out slowly and make a puddle under the tractor according to how big the leak is.
If the pressure side leaks it will not make air go into the pump but will cause a loss of oil.
If it does have the two plugs the one toward the rear of the pump is for priming only. Pour in some oil if needed and put this plug back in. Take the front plug out and start the tractor and run until the oil that is escaping the bleed hole is free of air bubbles. Then shut down and replace the plug and the pump should be operable.
There is the chance that the gear that is the pump driven gear has stripped out it's spline in the center of the gear where it fits onto the pump shaft. This does happen but not often. I suspect that cold oil and a leaky pump shaft seal may be the problem.
It is hard to fix the pump shaft seal if it is in fact leaking. A special tool is needed to pull the roller bearing race cup and the old seal if you save the old race. You can get that race out by welding a bead all the way around the face of the race and let it cool and then it will come out easy as it is shrunk. Then you can drive out the old seal and the old needle bearing. Dirty job but it can be done/
If it is determined that the pump is operating right and supplying enough volume of oil under pressure to the hydraulic system then you may have a sticking unloading valve in the lift ram cylinder housing.
If the lift is jumping/bumping/hiccupping it is caused by the lift trying to hold the height constant with a leak internally of the hydraulic system. The leak must be fixed before these symptoms will go away. Common leaking places are the ram cylinder O ring/s, the pressure relief valve, the O ring on the unloading valve or a blown gasket under the ram cylinder to housing flange surfaces.
On the 53 and up Ford tractors there is a gadget named the unloading valve. It is hydraulically shifted by the movement of the control valve. The control valve does not actually move oil to the ram cylinder. The oil is directed to the ram cylinder by the position of the unloading valve.
If and when the unloading valve stops moving then the lift won't lift until the problem that is causing this condition is fixed.
A faulty back pressure valve can cause the unloading valve to stick.
The unloading valve can stick on it's own.
The unloading valve has an O ring that can become worn until it will not allow the valve to move.
The pump could have lost it's prime too. The piston pump must be bled by opening the front head plug in the pump and running the engine slowly until all air bubbles are gone from the escaping oil. Stop the engine, replace the plug and start the engine again to see if that fixes the problem. It can!
I would first try bleeding the pump by removing the front pipe plug with the allen head hole in it. Start the tractor and let it idle as slow as possible and when all the bubbles are gone stop the tractor and put the plug back in. You will loose about a half cup usually so put something under the pump to catch the oil.
If it won't work then you must go into the lift and take out the unloading valve and clean it up and replace the O ring with the Ford O ring made specifically for the unloading valve. The old part # was NCA 836B. Don't use a substitute or you will be sorry.
The unloading valve is covered by a plate at the front of the control valve housing just above the control valve. Their is a plug over the valve that must be pulled by inserting a bolt with fine threads into the plug and prying it out with two bars. The valve can then be pushed out with a punch of the appropriate size. Don't strike it with a hammer. The O ring will be on the unloading valve that needs to be replaced.
If you will look around on the other reference pages of the N board etc you can probably find some good views of the lift to give you some idea of what you will be looking at.
When taking the lift control housing off the tractor remove only the bolts that are around the ;outside edge of the housing and do not remove any of the bolt that are inside this circle of bolts. If you encounter a bolt that has fine threads on it put it back where you took it out. The fine bolts hold the cylinder to the cover housing.
LIFT LEAKS DOWN
Install an implement on the lift and raise it.
If the lift leaks down or has a bad case of the hiccoughs it has some sort of hydraulic leak internally. The most common place will be the ram cylinder ring/s. To check the ram cylinder for leaks you can remove the hydraulic fill plug and with a good light observe the open of the ram cylinder as seen through the fill hole. The best light to use is the sun light directed into the hole with a mirror. A good bright flash light will work. If you see oil coming out the back open end of the ram cylinder the rings need to be replaced.
Hiccoughs can also be caused by a leaking O ring on the unloading valve itself. Or if there is a lot of wear in the control valve it can cause it but is much less likely than the ram cylinder rings or the unloading valve or the pressure relief valve.
Also the pilot pressure relief valve can be leaking. It can be accessed by removing the remote hydraulic valve or the valve adapter plate from the top of the hydraulic lift cover that is directly under the seat and on the right side in front of the quadrant mounting point. The relief valve is not serviceable and should be replaced if suspected to be leaking or bypassing.
ON THE NAA SERIES TRACTORS THE RAM CYLINDER GASKET COMMONLY FAILS/BLOWS OUT AND WHEN IT HAPPENS THE LIFT WILL BARELY RAISE THE EMPTY LIFT ARMS.
THE RELIEF VALVE ON THE NAA IS LOCATED ON THE RAM CYLINDER HOUSING POINTING BACKWARDS AND THE LIFT COVER HAS TO BE REMOVED TO ACCESS IT TO REPLACE.
REMOVE THE RIGHT SIDE LIFT INSPECTION PLATE AND OBSERVE IF THERE IS A LARGE VOLUME OF OIL SPRAYING/LEAKING FROM UP ABOVE IN THE AREA OF THE RAM CYLINDER TOP.
Good luck.
Zane
See my web site at
ZANES HYDRAULIC STUFF
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souNdguy
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 6:43 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
I'm still not following why you hooked a hose from the drain plug under the tractor to the fill port.. IMHO. it wouldn't flow as the fill port is higher than the drain plug, and the sump is not pressurized.
simple sump overfill will not account for loss of hydraulics.
reccomend you do a pressure test by chaining the lift arms down and plumbing a gauge into the port on the trans option cover and then lifting the 3pt handle for a second to see what the gauge says..
soundguy
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souNdguy
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Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2008 6:45 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
Hey. that could be what he was talking about. good idea..
Add to your advice that he needs to buy a manula. owners and service. the owners manual will help him ID parts correctly. and the service manual will help him with the lift cover R&R.
soundguy
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Dennis Sebesta
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Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2008 6:37 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
Thank you all for the info. Can anyone tell me the best way to remove the lift cover? and is there anything that is hooked to it from underneath?
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AmericanSoldier
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 7:00 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
Hey there Soundguy. in addition to my REPLY to you about my VOLTMETER question:
My FORD 600's hydraulics also have issue(s). My lift ONLY lifts about 3-4 inches and stops, (with or without a load on it) which beats the heck out of my bush hog and causes me to drag gravel and dirt with my box blade to places I don't need to.
When push down the lever under the seat down, the lift drops and then put lever back in postion, the lift goes back to the same 3-4 inch position.
At times however, (either with or without load) if I start the tractor with main lift lever in the highest position (and hold the lever under the seat, for a plow, I believe in the highest position), OCCASSAIONALLY, the lift goes up as high as it will go. But as soon as I go to adjust the lift for proper height for bush hogging, for example, the lift goes down and wont come back up, until I release the lever under the seat and then lift goes back to the 3-4 inches position mentioned earlier.
Any thoughts? please.
Americansoldier
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souNdguy
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 9:39 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
Badly out of adjustment lift linkage, and or worn cam follower pin.
soundguy
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AmericanSoldier
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 9:43 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
Soundguy, thanks for the reply. Is there a fix, a kit or something? I know nothing about hydraulics besides draining and refilling the reservoir.
Thanks.
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souNdguy
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 9:56 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
You would have to pull the lift cover and replace all the orings wheen you put it back together, plus service the cam pin and the cam if need be, plus adjust it. Refer to your manual for proper adjustment procedures.
No offense.but this is not something you want to dig into without a service manual. especially if your limit of knowledge is taking a cap off and pouring oil in.
soundguy
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AmericanSoldier
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 10:03 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
soundguy
No offense taken. It sounds like it is over my head anyway. Can you give me a guesstimate on how much one might charge to do what you are talking about? Or do I just need to save my $$$$$$ for a newer model with 4 wheel drive and a loader on it?
Also, did you get the email I sent you about the dumb question on the VOLTMETER, I might have missfired the reply?
thanks again.
AmericanSoldier
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souNdguy
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 10:31 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
I do remember replying to a question about a voltmeter.
I imagine a tractor mechanic or dealer shop could do the service for you. it's not rocket science or anything. but. it helps if you are either familiar with the process or are generally well mechanically inclined and have the manual. etc. If you have the manual. look over the section. if nothing jumps out and scares you. you can probably do the job with some online help. there are many people her ethat own hundred series tractors.
As for a new one? That's your call. I wouldn't do it just because I needed a couple hundred dollars of lift cover work. that is. unless I really wanted a new tractor. etc.
soundguy
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AmericanSoldier
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Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 10:47 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulic problem
Soundguy,
Really can't justify buying new Tractor. My neighbor suggested a
Hydraulic Pump Repair Kit, but it sounds nothing like what you are talking about. Taking your advice, next step is to buy a SERVICE MANUAL and look it over.
I will try the VOLTMETER solution tonight and let you know tomorrow.
Thanks again for the good info.
AmericanSoldier
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BobW
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 10:32 am Post subject: Ford 600 hydraulics
The 3 pt lift on my friend's 600 stopped working last year, someone else resolved this by replacing the lift cover O rings, but he had to double the pressure side to get the lift back. Recently the lift stopped working again which is where I signed on. We removed the cover and it looked like the double O rings were not sealing. I found some dimensions for the OEM O ring, located a replacement, but no improvement so we moved on to troubleshooting the pump. We cranked the tractor with the lift cover off. I understand we should have 1500-2000 psi, oil flowed out of the gallery, but did not 'shoot' out. What should I see? I pulled the pump off, I believe it is a NCA600F (piston type). The pistons/cylinders are smooth no obvious signs of wear, pistons move freely in their cylinders, springs appear to be uniform strength. Before we drop significant bucks into a pump, is there a way to better diagnose the pump condition? There is also a problem with water getting into the hydraulic system as the oil was milky. I drained and replaced the reservoir, but are there locations where water typically enters the system?
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JMOR
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 3:23 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
BobW wrote:
(quoted from post at 14:32:52 02/29/12) The 3 pt lift on my friend's 600 stopped working last year, someone else resolved this by replacing the lift cover O rings, but he had to double the pressure side to get the lift back. Recently the lift stopped working again which is where I signed on. We removed the cover and it looked like the double O rings were not sealing. I found some dimensions for the OEM O ring, located a replacement, but no improvement so we moved on to troubleshooting the pump. We cranked the tractor with the lift cover off. I understand we should have 1500-2000 psi, oil flowed out of the gallery, but did not 'shoot' out. What should I see? I pulled the pump off, I believe it is a NCA600F (piston type). The pistons/cylinders are smooth no obvious signs of wear, pistons move freely in their cylinders, springs appear to be uniform strength. Before we drop significant bucks into a pump, is there a way to better diagnose the pump condition? There is also a problem with water getting into the hydraulic system as the oil was milky. I drained and replaced the reservoir, but are there locations where water typically enters the system?

Low volume (gallons per minute) pump and with zero restriction there is zero pressure. With it all assembled, install a gauge on the test port & measure pressure. Most water comes from every day/night, hot /cold condensation, with some entry at the draft control spring/plunger, if tractor exposed to rain.
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Blindhawg
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 4:19 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
Did you try bleeding the air out of the system? My 640 needs it if I let it set for a month or more.
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Kurt-NEPA
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 5:53 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
Why not go to CNH and get the right piston O-ring and back up washer. They are not expensive. If you don't have a local CHN dealer try Messick's. That should seal up the piston/cylinder and stop any major leaks.
JMOR is right for testing the pressure. But its possible is that the pump has lost its prime.
You can loosen the bleeder plug on the front of the pump and run the tractor for while. Let the oil pump out all over the place. Then tighten the plug and see what happens. Or get serious, plumb an elbow into the bleeder hole, attach a ball valve and then convert to a hose barb. Attach a length of clear tubing and run the tubing back to the fill port for the hydraulic fluid. Close the valve and start the tractor. Slowly open the valve and you should see oil flowing through the tube. I there are bubbles, run the tractor for a bit and see if the bubbles stop. If yes, close the valve and check the hydraulic function. If all is well, button her up and celebrate. If the bubbles just keep going - post back, you have seal leak in the pump.
Hope that makes sense.
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JMOR
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Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:19 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
Kurt-NEPA wrote:
(quoted from post at 21:53:20 02/29/12) Why not go to CNH and get the right piston O-ring and back up washer. They are not expensive. If you don't have a local CHN dealer try Messick's. That should seal up the piston/cylinder and stop any major leaks.
JMOR is right for testing the pressure. But its possible is that the pump has lost its prime.
You can loosen the bleeder plug on the front of the pump and run the tractor for while. Let the oil pump out all over the place. Then tighten the plug and see what happens. Or get serious, plumb an elbow into the bleeder hole, attach a ball valve and then convert to a hose barb. Attach a length of clear tubing and run the tubing back to the fill port for the hydraulic fluid. Close the valve and start the tractor. Slowly open the valve and you should see oil flowing through the tube. I there are bubbles, run the tractor for a bit and see if the bubbles stop. If yes, close the valve and check the hydraulic function. If all is well, button her up and celebrate. If the bubbles just keep going - post back, you have seal leak in the pump.
Hope that makes sense.
Kurt is speaking from experience. Good advice.
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BobW
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:27 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
I got off task, but will give this a try. We had oil flow from the case gallery so it almost has to be the cover O ring. I got a cover gasket set, hopefully it has the correct O ring. Thanks for the advice.
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BobW
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:27 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
I put a kit in the pump since we had the parts on hand, blew out the pressure and return lines to make sure there were no obstructions, blew air through the cover to confirm the lift piston moved, put everything back together, confirmed pump operation and oil flow at the pump bleeder plug and prepared to celebrate. It was short lived as we still have zero movement of the lift arms.
The O ring I referred is between the lift cover and the chassis where the hydraulic oil enters and returns from the lift cover. I have rummaged through 2 lift cover gasket kits and neither has anything that appears to fit properly. I found the right OD, but too thin to extend above the recess and create a seal (which is why they used 2 on the last repair). There were a couple that are plenty thick, but the OD is larger than the recess so they distort. I found a detailed description at Alma Tractor & Equip and located some hydraulic suitable O rings this exact size. They appear to fit properly and we have oil flow at the accessory port on the lift cover when the accessory lever is 'on'. So I'm guessing we are sealed well enough that the lift should at least move with no implements attached. What do you think?
So if we have hydraulic pressure to the lift cover, where should I look next? I see we have a pressure relief valve in the cover and the piston/'valve assembly. Are there any other possibilities? Is it advisable to actually measure the pressure delivered to the lift cover? Where do I plumb the test gauge, into the accessory port?
Thanks.
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Kurt-NEPA
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 12:58 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
So you are back to square one Bob. I've been there several times, fun isn't it. At least you know whats new and have gained a lot of knowledge. I pulled my top cover 4 times before I got everything right. Lots of work, but it was worth it.
So, you have flow at the test port on the 3X5 plate under the seat. That's good, but do you have pressure. Plumb a gauge into the test port and give it try. If you have pressure, I'm thinking a stuck unloader valve or bad linkage. The gauge should tell. No pressure we are back to chasing major leaks or pump prime.
Your comment about the o-rings between the top cover and center housing concerns me. Those two o-rings should be in the kit. How deep was the recess they fit in. Should only be about 1/16' deep? If its deeper something is wrong. A leak there could be your problem. If you pull your PTO Lever/Cover, run the tractor, you might be able to look in and see the leak. A good mirror and flashlight helps.
Hang in there you'll get it. Keep us posted, we are all learning as we go.
Kurt
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JMOR
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 1:50 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
BobW wrote:
(quoted from post at 13:27:36 03/12/12) I put a kit in the pump since we had the parts on hand, blew out the pressure and return lines to make sure there were no obstructions, blew air through the cover to confirm the lift piston moved, put everything back together, confirmed pump operation and oil flow at the pump bleeder plug and prepared to celebrate. It was short lived as we still have zero movement of the lift arms.
The O ring I referred is between the lift cover and the chassis where the hydraulic oil enters and returns from the lift cover. I have rummaged through 2 lift cover gasket kits and neither has anything that appears to fit properly. I found the right OD, but too thin to extend above the recess and create a seal (which is why they used 2 on the last repair). There were a couple that are plenty thick, but the OD is larger than the recess so they distort. I found a detailed description at Alma Tractor & Equip and located some hydraulic suitable O rings this exact size. They appear to fit properly and we have oil flow at the accessory port on the lift cover when the accessory lever is 'on'. So I'm guessing we are sealed well enough that the lift should at least move with no implements attached. What do you think?
So if we have hydraulic pressure to the lift cover, where should I look next? I see we have a pressure relief valve in the cover and the piston/'valve assembly. Are there any other possibilities? Is it advisable to actually measure the pressure delivered to the lift cover? Where do I plumb the test gauge, into the accessory port?
Thanks.

What does this mean? '..and we have oil flow at the accessory port on the lift cover when the accessory lever is 'on'. 'Accessory lever is on' sounds like you have some kind of valve, maybe a Selec-trol-valve or the like? If you don't then the test port is #2 in far right image/photo. If not like this, then where are you talking about having flow?
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BobW
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:13 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
JMOR There is ~3x5' plate on the top of the lift cover that I understand is where a hydraulic accessory can be plumbed in. It has a 3/8' female NPT fitting with a plug in it. I think it is labeled 2 in your far right photo. There is a lever on the right side of the transmission housing that turns hydraulic flow on and off to this port. I removed the plug, put the lever in the 'on' position and got a flow of hydraulic oil flowing from the port. Sorry, haven't quite figured out how to display a picture here so follow this link to the exploded parts diagram for Ford 600 hydraulic system: http://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/AlmaTractorEquipmentInc/parts-search.html#epc::mr04-114ar04-114-57-39248 The lever is labeled 32, the plug is 19.
Kurt How much pressure should there be at this port? The recess is machined maybe a bit more than 1/16' does not appear boogered. The O ring called out in the link above is .487' ID x .103' thick. The o rings stick up a bit above the gasket surface so they should compress and seal when the top is bolted down. I looked at the operation of the lift linkage, nothing broken or detached and it appears to be moving the valve linkage in and out.

Last edited by BobW on Mon Mar 12, 2012 6:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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JMOR
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Posted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 8:20 pm Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
BobW wrote:
(quoted from post at 22:13:39 03/12/12) JMOR There is ~3x5' plate on the top of the lift cover that I understand is where a hydraulic accessory can be plumbed in. It has a 3/8' female NPT fitting with a plug in it. I think it is labeled 2 in your far right photo. There is a lever on the right side of the transmission housing that turns hydraulic flow on and off to this port. I removed the plug, put the lever in the 'on' position and got a flow of hydraulic oil flowing from the port. Sorry, haven't quite figured out how to display a picture here so follow this link to the exploded parts diagram for Ford 600 hydraulic system: http://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/AlmaTractorEquipmentInc/parts-search.html#epc::mr04-114ar04-114-57-39248 The lever is labeled 32, the plug is 19.
Kurt How much pressure should there be at this port? The recess is machined maybe a bit more than 1/16' does not appear boogered. The O ring called out in the link above is .487' ID x .103' thick. The o rings stick up a bit above the gasket surface so they should compress and seal when the top is bolted down. I looked at the operation of the lift linkage, nothing broken or detached and it appears to be moving the valve linkage in and out.
That is not an ON/OFF lever for the test port..that is your POSITION/ DRAFT control lever. The pressure you see at that port depends entirely on the load being lifted by the drawbar lift arms.
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Kurt-NEPA
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 2:01 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
That description of the top cover to center section housing or-ring sounds normal to me. As long as the o-ring stand proud of the gasket all is well.
JMOR answered your question on pressure a the test port.
If you had the pump apart and it had 6 pistons, you have a piston pump. Should look like this.
Do you have the pump and top cover off the tractor? Or is every thing buttoned up?
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BobW
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:43 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
Yes we have a piston pump. Everything is assembled at the moment.
After some reading I now understand the use/purpose of the Draft Control lever, although I'm not sure how it actually works. So is the test port simply an access point for measuring hydraulic pressure?
When the DC lever is horizontal no oil flows out of the test port, when the lever is vertical it does. Is that working correctly?
I see JMOR's remark about needing the system to be closed to build hydraulic pressure, but not about the working pressure of the system. I will need to purchase a gauge and need an idea of what capacity.
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JMOR
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 8:52 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
BobW wrote:
(quoted from post at 12:43:42 03/13/12) Yes we have a piston pump. Everything is assembled at the moment.
After some reading I now understand the use/purpose of the Draft Control lever, although I'm not sure how it actually works. So is the test port simply an access point for measuring hydraulic pressure?
When the DC lever is horizontal no oil flows out of the test port, when the lever is vertical it does. Is that working correctly?
I see JMOR's remark about needing the system to be closed to build hydraulic pressure, but not about the working pressure of the system. I will need to purchase a gauge and need an idea of what capacity.

'When the DC lever is horizontal no oil flows out of the test port, when the lever is vertical it does. Is that working correctly?' No, fluid pressure will be present at that port anytime the lift is being raised or when it is in up position, holding a load. 1950 to 2050 PSI.
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Kurt-NEPA
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Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 9:45 am Post subject: Re: Ford 600 hydraulics
I got to thinking after I posted early this morning, and that's a dangerous thing at my age. I may not fully understand what you have done so far. This is what I think the situation is.
Symptom: With the tractor running, moving the Touch Control Arm up and down does not result in any motion of the lift arm.
What you have done.
1. Taken the piston pump apart and verified that the piston and spring are in good condition.
2. Removed the top cover and replaced the main piston O-ring and back up washer. Installed new top cover O-rings and new top cover gasket.
Symptom is still the same.
From here I would go back to basics first. Hydraulic systems are very simple, its the valving that's complicated on the 600/800 series tractor. So lets check the basics first before you take anything else apart.
There are three basic parts of the hydraulic system. 1. Pump, 2. Valves, 3 Slave cylinder (piston). The pump and cylinder is what I would check first.
1. Testing the pressure at the test port is good starting point. You can also test the pressure at the bleeder port of the pump. Pressure should be about 2000 psi.
2. Check for pump prime. From the pump bleeder port, convert to a barbed fitting and run clear plastic tubing back to the hydraulic oil fill port. Start the tractor and watch the oil run through the tube. If no oil is moving, or if there are bubbles moving along the tubing, you have a pump problem. Stop the tractor and replace the plug.
3. Check the main cylinder for leaks, Remove the PTO lever cover (round cover under the seat on the left side). Put some weight on the lift arms. Start the tractor and take a look inside. You can see the back side of the cylinder. If oil is flowing there you have a leak.
Might be worth a try?
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